Written by:undefined undefined
Published: 20-02-2023
The Andes is the most extensive mountain range in the world. It spreads over 7000 km from the South to the North of the Latin American continent. This is why the opportunities for mountaineering, rock climbing, and trekking are almost infinite. You will find perfect granite walls for rock climbing and active volcanos. with enormous craters for summiting. Cross huge glaciers to reach summits over 6000 meters altitude, ascend steep ice gullies on technical mixed routes or trek at the foot of the mountains across beautiful landscapes. The Alpamayo mountain climb in the Cordillera Blanca Mountain range is officially the most beautiful mountain to climb in Peru!
Alpamayo Mountain Scenery
Alpamayo at 5947 M elevation, is one of the most stunning mountains to climb in the Cordillera Blanca range of The Andes. The starting point is the mountain town of Huaraz in Peru. This peak certainly attracts a lot of climbers from all across the globe and we can see why. Not only it is aesthetically eye-catching but the climb itself adds a technical climbing challenge due to the vertical pyramid structure of the mountain. Alpamayo is a great option for those people with good mountaineering knowledge. This peak has 14 ascent routes but the most climbed and famous are the three ones in its southwestern face. Find the best options in our selection of mountain climbing trips to the Alpamayo’s summit. The ascent to the Alpamayo will take 9 days and 8 nights, during which we will walk through the most remote places of the Cordillera Blanca. On the way, you will witness a great number of snow-covered peaks that paint the entire landscape white, giving the name to the mountain range.
Magnificent Alpamayo
Why The Alpamayo Mountain?
Alpamayo is one of the most beautiful ice faces of the Andes. It is located more remotely than most other peaks in the Cordillera Blanca, Nowadays Alpamayo is well-known and was even elected the most beautiful mountain in the world. It is not the difficulty that inspires the climbers but its magnificent setting among the everlasting snowcaps of the Cordillera Blanca, 6000 meters above sea level. The pyramidal Mount Alpamayo is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The ascent toward the summit is very steep and is mostly technical climbing. It is recommended, that this mountain only be climbed by well-acclimatized people who have reached the top of other peaks before attacking Alpamayo. One of the first conquerors (Günther Hauser) described his impressions of the Alpamayo with the following words:” A dream mountain appears above the valleys of the northern Cordillera Blanca, how only children who have never seen a mountain would dare to sketch it.
Alpamayo Sunset
From one side you will see it as a symmetrical pyramid, whose branches are covered with huge ice balconies. The other face of the Alpamayo, the trapeze shape of the southwestern wall, is even more beautiful. Through the concurrence of the almost vertically appearing tropical sun at midday, and the rising, damp air masses from the jungle, the wall has been covered by fine riffles. Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks. The park also includes the peaks of Huandoy and Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru), as well as 663 glaciers, 269 lakes, some 42 rivers, as well as 33 archaeological sites.
Midday Sunrise
Alpamayo Specifics
The Cordillera Huayhuash is 30 km long and has Himalayan characteristics and its peaks are, morphologically speaking, much more hilly and have more difficult access than those from the Cordillera Blanca. Aligned north to south, the main range of some twenty peaks. Six of the peaks exceed 6,000 m, among which are Yerupajá (6617 m), the second highest mountain in Peru, and Siula (6,344 m), made famous by Joe Simpson in "Touching the Void".
The impressive shape of Alpomayo and its spectacularly fluted ice face ensure that it remains a coveted summit for aspiring alpine climbers. On this expedition, you climb the southwest face by the French Direct, on mostly 45° snow and ice. One look at the southwest face of Alpamayo and any climber in the world would be interested in attempting to climb this remarkable peak. Alpamayo climbing is challenging and should only be attempted with prior altitude and mountaineering experience. Fiercely fluted faces combined with knife-edge ridges form one of the most iconic peaks in the world and often can be the highlight of a climber's career. Alpamayo’s Southwest Face offers 366m/ 1,200 ft of challenging alpine ice, much of it at an angle of 60 degrees or steeper.
First Nights Campsite
FAQs About Alpamayo
Alpamayo is a popular climb for those wanting to climb in Peru's famous and beautiful mountains in the Cordillera Blanca Range. We are asked many questions before a mountain climb of this kind so always consult with a professional before making any serious climbing decisions. Here are some of the most common questions asked.
Where is Alpamayo?
Alpamayo, aka Nevado Alpamayo, is one of the world's most beautiful peaks located in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range of the Peruvian Andes. The Cordillera Blanca has 29 summits over 6,000m. You will begin in Lima, Peru then you head to Huaraz. The mountain is at a serious altitude but not the highest in Peru, that would be Huascarán at 6768m.
When is the best time to climb?
Being in the southern hemisphere but close to the equator, the climbing season is best from June through September when it is the driest. However, the weather can be extremely cold and windy anytime
Is the Alpamayo climb dangerous?
Alpamayo is a relatively safe climb by the standard route but there have been avalanches. In 2003, 8 climbers were killed in an avalanche from a snow meringue that collapsed above the Ferrari Route.
How do you train for this climb?
If you have nearby mountains at home, then climb these, and if you can with a large backpack, to get used to this type of climb. Any kind of aerobic exercise is also a bonus before you leave home. There are acclimatization days built into the itinerary but at least 3 days in Huaraz can also help with acclimatization.
Is altitude a problem on this climb?
Yes! Anytime you are above 2500 meters elevation, you can experience problems. Alpamayo is a seriously high-altitude mountain at 5947 meters. The summit push is a long effort involving technical ice climbing with strong concentration and stress on the legs and arms. It is quite a mouth breather at times!
Can you prepare for the altitude?
Not really. The common approach is to move slowly up the mountain spending your days at a higher altitude than where you sleep up until your summit bid. The human body simply does not function well at high altitudes and especially above 8000m. As you go higher, the barometric pressure decreases, and although the air still contains 21% oxygen, every breath contains fewer molecules of oxygen.
Reaching The Summit
Experience Required
Alpamayo is a serious high-altitude technical climb. Many people climb without a formal guide and contract with local agencies for burros or carry everything themselves. There are usually a lot of climbers on Alpamayo so you would probably not be alone but could be.
Alpamayo is attainable by those who have climbed an Alpine route. You need to be confident doing multiple abseils/rappels. In harsh weather (white-outs) or in a medical emergency, you will be on your own so consider your skill level carefully. Helicopter rescues are available if you post a cash bond beforehand. For this reason, it is always safer to go with a guided group. Alpamayo should not be underestimated. Less than half of the climbers arriving at the base camp make it to the top.
Go Prepared!
If you want to climb Alpamayo and are an experienced climber looking for your next challenge, contact us here!
